Let a Clematis Climb Your Rose

– There are few sights as lovely as a trellis or fence smothered in roses, unless it\’s a rose and a clematis growing together intertwined, bringing out the best in each other. Most clematis are vines that need the support of a structure or a plant. But the support needn\’t be vertical; the plants will grow along a low fence or wind their way through other sturdy plants. Even shrub and ground cover roses make good partners, so the possibilities for combining these two stars of the garden are endless.

Bloom time is the first consideration. Decide if you want both plants to bloom at the same time or at different times to prolong the flowering on the fence or arbor. If your rose has just one flush of blooms, you can choose a clematis on the same blooming schedule. Or you can choose a clematis that blooms earlier or later. Or you can really extend the show by planting three different clematis alongside your rose — one that blooms before the rose, one that blooms simultaneously, and one that blooms later. That way, you\’ll be sure to have color all summer.

Both clematis and roses are available in a many different colors, and you can create exciting combinations by selecting varieties in colors unique to each plant. Clematis, for instance, come in many shades of blue, which is unheard of in roses, and roses come in many warm colors, such as orange, salmon, and mango, which are unseen in clematis.

Both roses and clematis need a full sun location away from wind, which can tear both plants from their supports. Clematis need their roots to be well mulched, or another plant growing near the base to shade the roots. Both plants need a lot of water, but clematis are more likely to suffer from lack of it. Provide each new plant with at least 1 gallon of water per week, more in hot weather.

The best time to plant both roses and clematis is in the spring. Both plants love rich, moist, well-drained soil, so amend the soil before planting with compost or well-rotted manure.

Plant grafted roses with the graft union 2 to 3 inches below the soil line in cold climates, slightly above the soil level in warmer regions. Plant clematis with the crown 2 inches below ground level — too deep and they\’ll fail to bloom. Before planting container-grown clematis, gently loosen the thick roots of the large-flowered hybrids, but be careful with the fibrous roots of the small-flowered plants. Simply spread the roots of bare-root plants before planting.

To minimize water and nutrient competition and to make pruning easier, plant clematis at least 1 foot and preferably 3 feet away from the host rose, and train the stems into the rose with stakes, foam-covered wire, or string. If you plant the companions near a wall, place them at least 1-1/2 feet from the wall and guide their stems toward the wall with a stakes.

Mulch new plantings to help retain moisture and suppress weeds. Fertilize in early spring before flower buds start to swell, and again in fall with compost or composted manure, as well as liquid fertilizer in the spring. Discontinue liquid fertilizer when the plants are in bloom because it will shorten their flowering period.

A former floral designer and interior plantscaper, Kathie Bond-Borie has spent 20 years as a garden writer/editor, including her current role as Horticultural Editor for the National Gardening Association. She loves designing with plants, and spends more time playing in the garden – planting and trying new combinations – than sitting and appreciating it.

Source

National Gardening Association

Guide to Bark Mulch

– Fall gardening rituals are often a welcome change from the busyness of the growing season. We may have leaves to rake and spent plants to cut down, but the pace tends to be a bit slower, more relaxed. And garden cleanup brings a sense of order to the end of the season, especially after we spread a fresh covering of mulch around trees, shrubs, and perennials. Mulch has become a bit of a fashion statement, as witnessed by the colored mulches on the market, but mulch serves a utilitarian purpose as well. It reduces weed growth, conserves moisture in the soil, and moderates temperature fluctuations in the soil. Fall mulching can help plants survive the winter, and the best material for this purpose is bark mulch.

Several bark and wood mulches are available: bark nuggets, mini-nuggets, hardwood mulch, and shredded mulch. Some come in bags, some in bulk. A chief advantage of these mulches compared with other organic mulches is that they remain attractive and functional for a couple of years. That\’s why they are the best choice for mulching around trees, shrubs, and other long-lived plants.

What\’s In Bark Mulch?

According to the National Bark & Soil Producers Association, any mulch with \”bark\” in the name must be at least 85 percent bark of that named tree. A \”mulch\” material, on the other hand, need be only 70 percent of the named material, and it may be either bark or wood. The primary difference is how long the mulch will last before breaking down. Bark is coarser, with larger pieces than shredded bark or other wood mulch, so it doesn\’t decompose as quickly. But it can be too coarse for some uses, such as around soft-stemmed perennials.

Spreading Mulch

Three to four inches of bark mulch is a good covering to apply around trees and shrubs in spring and fall. A thicker layer can reduce air circulation in the soil, which will retard plant growth. Also, take care not to pile mulch around the main stem of a plant or tree trunk. You frequently see these volcano cones of mulch surrounding tree trunks, but this technique can severely damage a tree by keeping the bark moist and inviting disease and insects, not to mention hungry rodents in winter. The mulch should be spread in a circle around the tree no closer than about 3 inches from the trunk. Use a thinner layer — 2 to 3 inches — around perennials.

Use shredded mulch around perennials and on walkways because large bark chips are too coarse. On steep slopes, shredded mulch (hardwood stays in place better than softwood) is best because large bark chips can easily wash away.

As bark decomposes, it uses nitrogen from the soil. This doesn\’t usually cause a nitrogen deficiency if the mulch stays on the surface of the soil because it decomposes slowly. Shredded bark decomposes more quickly, so if you use this type of mulch and your plants show any signs of nitrogen deficiency, such as yellowing leaves, you might want to add some nitrogen fertilizer before spreading new mulch. If you mix mulch into the soil, incorporating nitrogen fertilizer at the same time is a good idea.

A former floral designer and interior plantscaper, Kathie Bond-Borie has spent 20 years as a garden writer/editor, including her current role as Horticultural Editor for the National Gardening Association. She loves designing with plants, and spends more time playing in the garden – planting and trying new combinations – than sitting and appreciating it.

Source

National Gardening Association

Growing Red Raspberries

– Raspberries are so delicate and perishable they\’re scarce at the supermarket and fruit stands and expensive if you find them. Fortunately, they\’re easy to grow at home. Although naturally adapted to a cool climate, varieties have been developed for virtually all parts of the country. Most varieties bear one crop in the summer soon after the strawberry harvest ends. Certain varieties known as everbearers or fall-bearers have two crops each year, midsummer and fall. A well-tended raspberry patch can thrive indefinitely.

Selecting Varieties

The first step is to select a variety that\’s right for your region. Check with your county Extension Service. You can save money by digging plants from a friend\’s patch, but there is always the risk of acquiring diseased plants when you get them secondhand. A safer bet is to buy certified virus-free plants from a nursery.

A 30-foot row of raspberries, trained to single stems against a wall or fence, will yield about a quart of fruit every other day for three weeks, and that\’s plenty of raspberries for most people. A more traditional hedge-type planting will yield twice that amount, although it takes at least twice the space. Intensively trained berries are extremely productive. To get the most from red raspberries, plant at least two kinds: a main crop variety for heavy early summer harvests and a fall (or everbearing) type to close out the berry harvest. Where the season is long, you may need to plant two fall varieties so you can keep picking until frost.

Planting Tips

Early spring (late winter in the South) is the best time to plant raspberries. If you\’re importing plants from a friend\’s patch (or moving plants around in your own expanding patch), spring is the time to dig them. Keep bare-root raspberry roots moist by covering them with damp peat moss or soil until planting time. Soak the roots in a bucket of water for an hour before setting plants in the garden. Set each plant in a well-watered hole that\’s wide enough and deep enough for the roots to spread out. Firm the soil over the roots and cover each cane an inch or two deeper than it was previously grown. Water plants and cut each cane back to 8 inches.

Summer-bearers should begin to yield in their second year and bear full crops each succeeding summer. Vigorous everbearers may produce some fruit the very first fall. Heavy picking usually lasts about two or three weeks in early summer; everbearers produce another crop for several weeks in early fall. Raspberries need yearly pruning to keep them productive, so consult a resource for guidelines.

To enjoy top-quality fruit and prevent pest problems, pick berries as soon as they ripen; they should easily slide off the small white core that stays on the stem. Pick the berries directly into pint or smaller containers so they don\’t get crushed, and keep them out of the sun. Don\’t wash the delicate fruit until you\’re ready to eat it.

A former floral designer and interior plantscaper, Kathie Bond-Borie has spent 20 years as a garden writer/editor, including her current role as Horticultural Editor for the National Gardening Association. She loves designing with plants, and spends more time playing in the garden – planting and trying new combinations – than sitting and appreciating it.

Source

National Gardening Association

Easy Care: Spider Plants and Exotic Ferns

– This is another one of our traditional indoor hanging baskets. It does very well in medium to high light. It’s called a spider plant or airplane plant. It’s named for the plantlets that form after the flowers on the stems. They’re a complete plant. You can see the root development if you turn the plantlet over. If you want to propagate it, you just cut the stem off, set it in a pot, and it will grow. After a few weeks, it will develop roots, and you’ll have a new plant. So, it’s very easy to share with family or friends.

The airplane plants have three different leaf patterns. This one has a green center with white edges. Another type has green edges on the leaf and the center is a creamy yellow. And the third type has solid green leaves.

All of them do very well. The more common, and more vigorous, is the one where the variegation is in the middle of the leaf, and the edges are green. But the slower growing one, with the green in the middle, is better adapted to medium to low light. The other one better adapted to higher light.

Next, we have an example of a Staghorn Fern. It does extremely well indoors. It’s an ideal plant, and it’s exotic looking. So it appeals to certain decors and certain tastes rather than the general population. It grows naturally attached to limbs up in the forest canopy in a tree. Because it’s covered in dense shade, it does very well indoors in low light. You might notice we have it growing in a wire basket covered with moss. We don’t want it in a pot because it’s an aerophyte. It’s used to being out here in the air. It doesn’t take much water so it’s an excellent indoor houseplant. It’s a little more open or airy. But if you want an exotic flair, it’s certainly a good one to consider.

This feature story prepared with Alan Stevens, Kansas State University Research and Extension State Leader, Horticulture. For more information, visit your local county extension office or visit our website at KansasGreenYards.org.

Source

K-State Research and Extension

Growing Mini Roses Indoors

– Kathy Bond-Borie, Guest Columnist – Even though the weather has turned cold and we\’ve put our garden roses to bed for the winter, that doesn\’t mean we have to be rose-deprived until spring. Miniature roses adapt quite well to life indoors. They are a bit more particular about light and humidity than some indoor flowering plants, but they will reward the extra effort with stunning flowers that come in a wide range of colors.

For the most part, miniature roses are scaled-down versions of full-sized roses, and while they vary in many ways, all mini roses have small, rarely fragrant flowers. Plants can range from micro-minis (5 inches or less) to 3 to 4 feet or even larger. Flowers can be anywhere from 1/2 to 2 inches across, with a color range as broad as for full-size roses.

Mini roses need plenty of bright light, such as in a bright west- or south-facing window. But for repeat bloom, you\’ll need the supplementary light provided by fluorescent tubes. Also provide some extra humidity around the plants because indoor air is typically quite dry. Set plants in a water-filled tray on a layer of pebbles, or use a room humidifier. If humidity is too low, the leaves will shrivel, turn yellow, and drop. Here are some other tips:

1. Buy new plants each season to ensure that your plants are free of diseases and pests. Choose varieties that are short and especially floriferous.
2. Fertilize weekly with a fertilizer diluted to one-quarter strength. To encourage blooms, use a fertilizer with a formula high in potassium, such as 5-5-10.
3. Watch carefully for any sign of pests. Spray whiteflies with a lightweight horticultural oil. If spider mites become a problem, wash plants thoroughly every 2 to 3 days. For a severe infestation of spider mites, strip all leaves and cut the plant back by half. Healthy new growth will emerge rapidly.
4. Use a commercial potting mixture containing perlite and vermiculite when repotting.
5. When flowering has finished, place plants under fluorescent lights to encourage reblooming in about six weeks.
6. After the last frost in spring, gradually acclimate plants to outdoor air. Plant them in the garden or in an outdoor container.

For more tips and garden information visit www.garden.org

A former floral designer and interior plantscaper, Kathy Bond-Borie has spent 20 years as a garden writer/editor, including her current role as Horticultural Editor for the National Gardening Association. She loves designing with plants, and spends more time playing in the garden – planting and trying new combinations – than sitting and appreciating it.

Source

National Gardening Association

What\’s Eating My Potatoes?

– Potatoes are a fun crop to grow, especially when it comes time to dig for those buried treasures. Unfortunately, there are numerous pests that are also fond of potatoes. Here are the most common and what to do about them.

Colorado Potato Beetle

In spite of the name, these insects can be found in most states. Both the adults, which are yellowish with black stripes, and the larvae, which are dark red or orange with black spots, feed on potato foliage. Check the undersides of leaves for their orange egg masses and rub them off. Dispose of beetles in a can of soapy water. Bacillus thuringiensis \’San Diego\’ kills the young larvae it\’s harmless to beneficial insects, animals, and humans.

Flea Beetle

Flea beetles are tiny, black or brown, and pesky. They chew small holes in plant leaves and can do serious damage fast if they attack young plants. To foil these pests, cover young plants with fabric row covers as soon as you set them out. Keep flea beetle populations low through crop rotation and by maintaining high soil organic matter.

Aphid

These tiny insects can transmit virus diseases. They suck juices from the leaves and stems of potato plants, stunting their growth. Insecticidal soap sprays are an effective control.

Wireworm

Wireworms are the larvae of the click beetle. They\’re a problem when potatoes are planted in a section of garden that was recently in sod. Fully-grown wireworms are 1/2 to 1-1/2 inches long, slender, and brownish or yellowish white. They tunnel into plant roots and tubers, spoiling them. If your soil is heavily infested, contact your Extension Service for advice on solving the problem.

Diseases

You may have a disease problem in the potato patch one year and none at all the next. The weather plays a big part in the health of a potato crop. Moisture and temperature conditions may trigger certain diseases, which will spread rapidly through the potato rows. But there\’s no need to simply sit back and let the weather determine the fate of your crop.

To protect your crop, rotate the potato plot each year. Plant healthy, certified seed potatoes. If you have severe disease problems, consider using a standard potato dust or spray regularly throughout the season. These are chemical mixtures that prevent some diseases such as late blight. They thwart some pests, too, such as the Colorado potato beetle. If you use a potato dust or spray, read and follow the directions carefully. To be effective, most standard dusts must be applied to the potato foliage every 7 to 10 days, beginning when the plants emerge from the ground.

The fungus that causes common scab lives in the soil for many years. It\’s not active when the soil pH is below 5.4, so if you have a serious scab problem, take a soil pH test. You may want to lower the pH by adding wood ashes to the potato bed. Avoid lime, which raises the pH.

Early Blight

Early blight injures foliage and reduces overall yields. Affected leaves develop small, dark brown spots that often grow in size until the entire leaf dies. Gardens in central, southern, and eastern states are most susceptible. Planting certified seed and mulching with hay can prevent this disease.

Late Blight

Late blight is caused by the downy mildew fungus (Phytophthora infestans), which triggered the Irish crop failures of 1845 and 1846. The first sign of the disease is water-soaked areas on the leaves that turn brown and black. The disease often strikes during cool, wet weather and may spread rapidly if the weather warms up. Plants can die in a severe case, and potatoes can be seriously affected, especially in storage. Plant certified seed and use a potato dust to guard against late blight.

Mosaic Virus

Aphids can spread mosaic viruses, which cause potato leaves to curl and appear almost two-toned (light and dark green). Mosaic occurs throughout the United States and reduces the harvest, but it doesn\’t kill the plants. \’Kennebec\’ and \’Katahdin\’ varieties have some resistance to certain kinds of mosaic. See \”Aphid\” above for control measures.
A former floral designer and interior plantscaper, Kathie Bond-Borie has spent 20 years as a garden writer/editor, including her current role as Horticultural Editor for the National Gardening Association. She loves designing with plants, and spends more time playing in the garden – planting and trying new combinations – than sitting and appreciating it.

What to Consider When Purchasing a Utility Tractor

From a few acres of suburban sprawl to large properties in rural regions, building, mowing, digging and transporting can be a daunting task. With the right utility tractor, more work can be done with less elbow grease.

Whether you are replacing an old machine or you’re a first-time buyer, navigating the world of compact utility tractors can be complicated. Questions arise such as: How much power do you need? Will it be easy to operate? What tasks can it help you with? Working with a local equipment dealer to select the right model is the easiest way to be sure you get exactly what you need, at a price you want. Before you purchase, give some thought to these features to help narrow down your options.

Horsepower: The first considerations are what types of jobs you intend to complete and the terrain of your yard or property, which impact how much horsepower you need. Depending on your work list, which may include tasks like plowing or cutting, you may need more or less horsepower.

Transmission: When it comes to the transmission, consider determining your preference between automatic or manual. Hydrostatic transmissions, such as those offered on John Deere 1 Series tractors, function similarly to an automatic transmission in an automobile. Combined with dual foot controls that simplify changing gears, the hydrostatic transmission transmits high power in a compact size and operates efficiently over a wide range of torque-to-speed ratios, allowing the operator to quickly perform jobs through smooth, versatile machine control. Conversely, manual transmissions are rugged and require a little bit more work on the part of the operator, also much like operating a manual automobile.

Lift capacity and height: Are you planning to use a loader often? Consider how much and what you will be lifting. Cycle time is also an important factor, as that determines how quickly the bucket can go up and down, improving speed and overall efficiency.

Comfort v. cost: Another consideration is whether you want a tractor equipped with premium features or if the basic model will satisfy your needs. Comfort features like optional climate-controlled cabs, available with John Deere 3R Series tractors, provide year-round productivity from sunrise to sunset. However, even entry models come equipped with the essentials that offer plenty of work power with an affordable price tag.

Implements: It’s easy to add functionality to a compact utility tractor, turning it into a multi-purpose workhorse. First, consider what implements you might want before purchasing, since it may be essential to select a model with specific attachment features. For example, if you are looking to use a backhoe or front blade, look for a model that has a quick-attach system allowing for easy connection, keeping you nimble and efficient around your property. Hydraulics are also an important consideration for loader attachments, depending on size and job requirements.

For more information about how to select and use a compact utility tractor to its fullest potential, visit JohnDeere.com/Residential2016.

Source:

John Deere

Make Your Yard Picture Perfect

It takes more than just mowing the lawn to get a great looking yard. In addition to making sure you have healthy, well-cut grass, there are some finishing touches you should add so that your yard goes from so-so to something you can be proud of.

Trimming and Edging the Lawn

The lawn mower can’t reach every place that grass grows. So after mowing, you’re often left with long grass sticking up around trees and flower beds, as well as along sidewalks, patios and driveways. When you trim, you leave your lawn neat and tidy.

Trimming is cutting the edges of your lawn horizontally. It levels unmowed grass so it’s even with the rest of the lawn. String trimmers are effective tools for this job. A battery powered trimmer, such as the 36 volt Lithium High Performance String Trimmer with Power Command® controls from Black & Decker, is a lightweight option for many homeowners. Its battery holds a charge 5 times longer while idle compared to HPB18 NiCad battery packs, and it requires no gas to operate.

To trim properly, keep a few things in mind

—Make sure the area you’re going to trim is free of debris.
—Slowly move the trimmer from side to side, letting the tip of the line do the cutting.
—Keep the head two to three inches off the ground so you don’t scalp the lawn and damage it.
—Cut thick or tall grass in smaller sections so you don’t clog the trimmer.
—Don’t let the line cut into trees and shrubs. This can damage them and make them more vulnerable to disease or hurt their growth.
—When you’re finished, remove clippings and debris from the trimmer.
—Plan on trimming every mowing to maintain a neat appearance.

When you edge a lawn, you’re making vertical cuts to remove grass growing over sidewalks or patio edges. Some trimmers require a separate attachment for edging or will not convert to an edger, while many can simply be rotated to operate vertically.

Edging and Trimming Safely

To help protect yourself from debris:
—Wear protective safety glasses.
—Wear long pants.
—Wear closed shoes.
—Wear gloves. Keep others away from any debris or objects which may be hit by the line.
—Always follow your instruction manual.

Trimming Hedges

Properly pruned hedges not only improve the look of the plants, but their health, too. Formal hedges are typically made up of shrubs with small leaves that get sheared into a smooth and uniform-looking surface. Informal hedges are more casual in appearance, and are usually made up of plants that bear flowers or fruit, and have wider leaves.

Using a hedge trimmer such as the 36 volt 24-inch Lithium Hedge Trimmer from Black & Decker can make this task easy. The lithium-ion battery holds a charge up to 18 months. The 24-inch dual-action blade cuts branches quickly and has less vibration compared to a single action blade.

Here are few tips for trimming a formal hedge

—Deciduous hedges should be trimmed in late winter, while evergreens can be trimmed in mid-spring.
—Sloping the hedge so that the base is broader than the top lets sunlight reach lower leaves.
—To help you trim hedges evenly, use stakes and string to set up guidelines for height and width.
—Cut slowly, and use a smooth, up and down sweeping motion. If you apply too much pressure, the blades can tear branches instead of cutting them neatly.
—Cut the sides of a hedge first.
—Use a ladder to reach the tops of tall hedges.
—Keep trimmer blades sharp and clean.

Hedge Trimming Safely

To help protect yourself from debris:
—Wear protective safety glasses.
—Wear long pants.
—Wear closed shoes.
—Wear gloves and keep both hands on the trimmer.
—Always follow your instruction manual.
—Keep others away from any debris as it falls.

Yard Clean-Up

Do a periodic yard check to take stock of what needs to be picked up or removed.
—Remove twigs and branches.
—Pick up and store outdoor toys.
—Make sure pet items such as shelters, bowls and toys are clean and well-maintained.
—Remove dead plants from flower beds, planters and window boxes.
—Rake leaves and debris from flower beds, shrubs and around trees.
Remove leaves, grass clippings and other lawn debris from sidewalks, decks, driveways and other hard surfaces with Black & Decker’s 36 volt Lithium Cordless Sweeper Vacuum. Its Power Command® controls speed for run time or power and easily converts to vacuum mode when you need it.

Taking a little extra time to put the finishing touches on your yard pays off. You’ll boost your home’s curb appeal and make your yard something everyone can enjoy.

More Easy Finishing Touches

—Add decorative edging to flower beds. You can use hardscape materials such as brick, stone, plastic or steel, or you can plant living edging with attractive ground cover plantings.
—Mulch around trees, shrubs and flower beds. Not only does mulch keep weeds in check, but it can give those areas a neater appearance. Look for natural materials such as wood chips or cocoa hulls. While there are a variety of colored mulch options, keep in mind that dark, earth-colored mulch will put the spotlight on your plants, while brighter colored mulch will draw attention to itself.
—Keep hoses neatly stored with hose reels. You can find wall-mounted reels, covered boxes, or even attractive pots to keep hoses from cluttering up your yard.

Learn more about lithium-ion battery powered tools at www.blackanddecker.com/recharge.

Source:

Black & Decker

Save

Entice Hummingbirds with Beautiful Blooms

Blessed with the ability to fly forward, backward and upside down, hummingbirds are just as graceful as they are beautiful. They can also be fun to watch as they hover and flit around plants or feeders, sipping nectar to their heart\’s content.

Hummingbirds imbibe three to five times per day in gardens throughout North America. Entice these amazing winged creatures with brightly-colored flowers that bloom early in the spring. Then select flowering plants, bushes and vines that bloom throughout summer and into early fall. Among their favorites flowers are:

• Lantana
• Trumpet Creeper
• Impatiens
• Butterfly Bush
• Bee Balm
• Salvia
• Lupine
• Yucca

Bright flowers are what lure hummingbirds into your garden, not the fragrance. In fact, they have no sense of smell. Red flowers are notorious for attracting these creatures but they also love purple, white, orange, pink and blue.

Once you\’ve attracted their attention, it\’s important to keep them happy, healthy and fed. Avoid spraying insecticides on your hummingbird garden, it can sicken or kill them. Hummingbirds also need the added protein of the small insects.

A few bright blossoms are an excellent way to lure hummingbirds to a feeder. Simply fill the feeder with a mixture of 1/2 cup white sugar with two cups water, then stir vigorously until all of the sugar is dissolved. Any unused mixture can be stored in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. If the solution in the feeder turns cloudy, it\’s time replace it.

Thoroughly clean your feeder each time it\’s refilled. Combine 1/2 cup vinegar with two cups water, and then use the concoction to scrub the feeding ports. Pour the remaining mixture into the feeder and shake vigorously until clean. A bottle brush may be used, if necessary. Allow to dry thoroughly before refilling.

Once you have the flowers planted and feeder filled, you can sit back and wait for the hummingbirds to fill your garden.

Source:

eLivingToday

Outdoor Rooms from Top to Bottom

Outdoor rooms continue to be rated as essential by homeowners, given they are extensions of interiors and add real estate value. Yet, designing outdoor living areas comes with its share of challenges. Understanding the basics from the ground up simplifies the process.

The patio is more than a hard surface. It can serve as the outdoor room\’s focal point around which other materials and features are styled. The textures and shapes of stone flooring can lend a dimensional feel, while a deck\’s color allows it to contrast or blend with the environment.

When planning the floor, spacing is the most important component. Determining upfront if a dining area or outdoor kitchen is desired, and how many people the space will accommodate are key considerations. The patio should be planned to house these installations.

Patios, along with outdoor structures, provide exterior spaces with foundational dimensions and protected placements for furniture and accessories. \”Foundations delineate the room and establish the space that belongs to the room, and that which does not,\” says Sarah Kinbar, editor of Garden Design magazine, a leading outdoor design publication. \”Edges and boundaries created by foundations are the outdoor\’s answer to walls.\”

Outdoor product manufacturers offer exterior structures, furnishings, fabrics and designs to provide permanent enhancements that increase property values. Through a recent partnership, the outdoor room innovators at Walpole Woodworkers and ShadeFX Canopies unveiled versatility and quality as top priorities for outdoor spaces. As a result, the two companies launched a line of shade pergolas that combine cellular vinyl pergolas with retractable and integrated canopy systems.

\”As a design element, shade pergolas moderate the transition from indoors to outdoors,\” explains Steve Ostrowski, president of ShadeFX Canopies. \”The structure defines the space and provides a sense of privacy that makes dining tables and cushioned furniture feel more appropriate in outdoor areas.\”

Shade pergolas offer homeowners the ability to create sanctuaries that are covered from rain, protected from sun, impervious against wind, and immune from the stresses of daily life. Since the canopies are retractable, homeowners can switch from sun to shade at their leisure. The cellular vinyl pergolas are a low- to no-maintenance realistic wood alternative and last more than 25 years. The durable canopies offer 10 to 15 years of use.

\”With their height, depth, and width, using shade pergolas adds dimension and substance to outdoor rooms,\” says Lou Maglio, president of Walpole Woodworkers. \”Outdoor structures such as these can reflect and enhance the integrity of a home\’s architectural style.\”

When adding an outdoor structure, a homeowner should first decide where in the landscape to place it, keeping in mind views from interior windows, sunlight, and proximity to the home. \”Typical retractable awnings extend less than 16 feet, and a shade pergola can be used to cover a large area up to 600 square-feet,\” says Ostrowski. \”A design decision is whether it should be affixed to or separate from the house.\”

The remaining outdoor living area should be designed like any interior, implementing function and cohesive style. Outdoor fabrics and accessories should reveal personality while adopting juxtaposed colors, textures and lines that translate easily, as if the interior naturally extends outdoors.

According to Kinbar, outdoor rooms have always existed; they are becoming more defined as new products arrive on the market that make these spaces as livable as indoor rooms. To learn more, visit www.shadepergolas.com and www.gardendesign.com.

Source:

Walpole Woodworkers

ShadeFX Canopies